We have had little prior experience with independent travel using a driver and car. (The only time we did before this was in Ecuador in 2004 and that was for just a few days; that experience was also very positive.)

When we decided to go to India, a friend suggested we make arrangements with Perfect Travels and Tours in Delhi. She had some very positive experiences on three different trips. So we sent an email and explained that we wanted a recommendation for a trip that included the Golden Triangle of Delhi-Agra-Jaipur (where most tourists go), an in-depth visit to Rajasthan, and several National Parks to track the elusive Tiger. The suggested 21 day trip is shown in our itinerary (starting in Delhi on February 7). Bob and Marcia decided to join us for the Mumbai portion and the first week of our 21 day adventure. Many days of emails went back and forth to Delhi until the fine tuning was done. We were asked to wire a small amount for a deposit. That was an adventure in itself, though in reality it is easy (but expensive) to do.

Here is how it went. First we flew to Mumbai for a wedding with graduate school friends with visits on our own to Elephanta Caves and then Aurangabad (Ellora and Ajanta). We made our own arrangements for international travel and the first week in Mumbai. We took a flight from Aurangabad to Mumbai and continued to Delhi to pick up on the arrangements through Perfect Travel.

The flight was almost 3 hours late and arrived around 10 pm. At the exit to the terminal we saw our name on one of many, many signs. A driver and representative helped with our abundant luggage to the waiting car. They had already waited 3 three hours for us to arrive. In the car our arrangements were reviewed by the representative with me as the "tour director". We arrived about 30 minutes later at the Bajaj Indian Home Stay, a small hotel that has the feel of a bed and breakfast. On arrival we paid for the balance of the trip using American Express Travel Checks in US Dollars.

The next morning we had breakfast and were picked up by our driver and local guide to see New and Old Delhi. At each stop the admission fees were paid by the guide. We had to pay for camera fees and our afternoon and evening meals. The next day our driver took us to Agra, home of the Taj Mahal, where we stopped at the hotel to be met by the local representative and a new local guide. At each stop someone helped us get through the hotel procedures and into our rooms. Every detail was anticipated and covered. We did our sightseeing and sometimes a visit to a shop or store. We could ask the driver or guide for anything reasonable and it was done. 

Between cities the driver took us on the highways and biways. All the tolls were paid. We stopped on each trip every few hours (if needed) for food, toilet, and interesting landmarks. If we wanted a photo, the driver would stop. All the driving and parking and waiting was done by the driver. In America those long waits make drivers unhappy. I'm sure it also does in India, but there waiting appears to be a way of life. The roads are extremely challenging with bumps and numerous animals, pedestrians, and vehicles, as well as the frequent rains that we encountered. The driver never used a map and most signs are in Hindi (or not even there at all).

When we got to Ranthambore National Park, our driver took us to the hotel and came back after two nights to continue on to Jaipur. One vehicle and one driver were part of the arrangement. We spent two nights in Jaipur with the driver and local guide taking us as needed. Then our second driver arrived at the hotel and introduced himself. Bob and Marcia went in the first vehicle on the 7 hour trip back to the Delhi Airport and we continued with the new vehicle and driver deeper into Rajasthan to Mandawa, Bikaner, Jodhpur, Udaipur, Chittaurgarh, and Kota. We stopped at several special temples (Karimata and Ranakpur) along the way without local guides and the driver gave some interpretation and told us how to get the further information we needed.

When we arrived in Kota to catch a train, our driver took us to the platform, waited for the train (which was late), took us to our sleeper berths, and made sure we were safe and settled (it would have been quite scary on our own for the first time). When we arrived in Jabalpur, the train had barely stopped rolling when several porters and the new driver were in our sleeper berth to remove the bags. Again the train was late and he had been waiting patiently. Off the train and into the car for the five hour trip to Kanha. The roads were poor and crowded as always. We stopped for tea and toilet at just the right time, and then on our way so that we could be on time for lunch and an afternoon jeep ride to look for the tiger.

The driver took us to the Jungle Lodge and made sure we were settled and told us he would meet us early morning after the second night. At the appointed time he arrived and drove us for another 7 bumpy hours to the next Tiger Reserve at Bandhavgarh. Again he ensured that we were established. Two days later he arrived at the park to drive just 30 minutes to the next overnight train. This trains was 1.5 hours late again. He got a porter to help us and waited until the train arrived - even though he was to drive 9 hours that night, starting at 10:30 PM to go to his home. He got us on the train and into our sleeper berths during the 10 minute train stop. As we were getting settled, I heard a thumping on the train window before we moved. He was still out there. I went to the door and he and the local porter wanted to be sure that we were OK. We were.

The train ride was 18 hours to Delhi. When we arrived, porters were in our sleeper berth again to get our luggage. The driver and local representative had waited for us on the platform, even though the train was 3 hours late. They drove us for the 30 minutes to the hotel. The next morning a driver arrived at 06:15 AM (on time) and took us to the airport in Delhi. They made sure we got our luggage to the terminal door which blocked any further assistance from them. I'm they would had walked us onto the plane three hours later if they had been permitted.

I have given all this detail to show how every step of the trip was covered. Every hotel was as expected and we saw every sight we had been promised except for the sunrise at the Taj Mahal (no sunrise due to rain). And even then the guide rearranged the schedule to make it more meaningful for us. Local representatives, drivers, guides, hotel staff - everyone treated us like royalty. Handoffs from one step to the next were all seamless. We believe the price for all this personal care was very reasonable.

In summary, if you are going to tour in India on an independent basis, this is the right company. A tour bus is OK if you like to wait for other people, but if you want to see what is happening on the road AND feel safe AND see the sights, this is the way to experience India.

Perfect Travel and Tours