Bob and Joyce
Ecuador and Galapagos Islands Adventure

October 22 - November 9, 2003

Wednesday, October 22, 2003

Depart Washington-Regan on American Airlines flight 2127 at 1:11pm a 2 ½ hour flight to Miami where you will connect to flight 967 for Quito (4 hours) arriving at 8:25pm.

Located high in the Andes at 9,600 feet elevation Quito is the second highest capital city in South America.  Upon arrival at the Mariscal Sucre Airport you will pass through immigration, claim your luggage, and pass through customs.  Upon exiting customs you will be met by your guide, porters and driver who will assist you with luggage and provide transportation to the Sierra Madre for the night.

On the 15 – 20 minute ride from the airport to the hotel the guide will offer a brief introduction to Quito, go over arrangements for the following day as well as have time to answer questions. 

Hotel Sierra Madre

Thursday, October 23, 2003

Waking up your first morning in Ecuador you will have time to enjoy a buffet breakfast at the hotel before meeting your guide & group for your combined Historic Quito and Equator Monument Tour.

Quito is home to excellent museums, art galleries, and fine private residences containing valuable art collections, wide variety of national and international restaurants, parks, villas, and its colonial center, which is one of the finest in Latin America. Quito was designated a World Heritage Site by UNESCO. Beginning in the northern residential section the tour views the impressive Parliament Building whose stones records Ecuador’s history, and continues on foot through downtown Quito home to the colonial churches and monasteries.  Visits will include the St. Augustine Convent, its colonial patio, cloisters, coffered ceiling and vast art collection, the Independence Plaza flanked by the Cathedral, Presidential Palace, Municipal Building and Archbishop’s Palace and the Church of San Francisco one of the great religious buildings in the New World with its impressive facade, gilt interior and winged Virgin of Quito at the main alter. 

After visiting old-town Quito, you will drive 23 Km (16 miles) north of to Mitad del Mundo (The Middle of the World) the largest Equator division marker in the world.  The imaginary 38,600 km Equatorial Line has been turned into a 10 cm wide yellow strip set into the ground where you can place a foot in each hemisphere across the Equator. The towering Equator Monument houses the Ethnographic Museum where they will learn the history of the many cultures that exist within Ecuador.  There is also time to visit the surrounding complex designed as a typical colonial town is complete with a main square, church, post office, bullring, restaurants and gift shops returning to Quito for the night.

Breakfast…Hotel Sierra Madre

Friday, October 24, 2003

This morning you will be met by your guide, and begin the journey north along the Pan American Highway to the Ecuadorian Lake District and the Otavalo Valley.  Passing through dramatic mountain scenery and enjoy stops at some of the many craft villages along the way.  The tour is flexible and can be altered to meet your needs – if you want to spend more or less time in any area the guide and driver are prepared to make those adjustments for you.

In the heart of Ecuador's lake district, Hacienda Pinsaquí is rich with centuries of history. Ideally situated at the base of Imbabura Volcano, just north of the world-famous Otavalo market and only two hours from Quito, the charming capital of Ecuador. This location also allows easy access to the regions many attractions such as the Lakes of San Pablo, Cuicocha, and Mojanda, as well as the white colonial city of Ibarra and local handicraft villages.

Enjoy the comfortable surroundings of Hacienda Pinsaqui as you relax among gardens and explore historic antiques. Aside from being an enchanting place to stay in the Lake District of Imbabura, the hacienda is complete with special services including an elegant restaurant, a den with a large fireplace, and patios with a view of the Imbabura Volcano.
Each room is unique and has a character all of its own. There are 16 suites with fireplaces that comfortably accommodate up to 5 people. Within the rooms you will find sheepskin rugs, heavy blankets and pieces of traditional art. Most rooms have a view overlooking the lovely gardens behind the Hacienda.

The restaurant is beautifully decorated with white stonewalls, deep blue curtains, historic art and huge windows facing the breathtaking landscape. The restaurant, which caters for both vegetarians and meat eaters alike, offers 3 meals per day, ranging from soups and sandwiches, to more elegant dishes including fish, meat, and pastas. Try the typical Ecuadorian soups, the fresh fish and rich desserts. In the underground bar, enjoy the cozy atmosphere created by a burning fire and family regalia. Admire the historic equestrian equipment; from worn leather saddles to dusty horse show medals - this room is blazing with history. Sip one of the fine wines, or enjoy a cup of coffee by the fire, whilst browsing the photos, certificates, and plaques which all attest to the tradition of the hacienda.

 

Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner…Hacienda Pinsaqui

Saturday, October 25, 2003

Otavalo is South America’s most famous Indian fair.  The Otavalo Indians are the most ambitious and prosperous craftsmen and merchants in Ecuador.  Market stalls are piled high with colorful ponchos, woolen goods, and jewelry.  The locals barter in silence, in marked contrast to the raucous noise of the other markets. 

The Saturday Market takes place from 6am until noon beginning with the animal market.  Local villagers come from all over the area to buy and sell their wares. While in Otavalo there is ample time to visit the famous market and stroll along the narrow cobblestone streets filled with Otavalo Indians wearing blue ponchos, white trousers and long braided hair.  Afternoon return is to Quito and the Hotel Sierra Madre.

Breakfast, Lunch…Hotel Sierra Madre

Sunday, October 26, 2003

San Cristobal: Puerto Baquerizo Moreno & Interpretation Center

After an early breakfast at the hotel the guide and driver will meet you at the hotel and provide transport to the airport for their flight to the Galapagos, additional services provided include assistance with their luggage, checking in for your flight.  You will also pass through an airport inspection point to insure that no foreign plants or animals are introduced to the islands.

The flight from Quito (via Guayaquil) to the Galapagos is approximately 2-½ hours flight.  Upon arrival at San Cristobal you will claim your luggage and pay your Galapagos Park before meeting your guide who will arrange for assistance with your luggage and escort you on the short bus ride to the harbor.  At the harbor small dingies called “Pangas” will transport the group to the M/V Parranda where they will be welcomed aboard.

San Cristóbal is the easternmost island in Galapagos; on its southwestern side is the town of Puerto Baquerizo Moreno, the capital of the province of Galapagos. On Puerto Baquerizo Moreno is the Interpretation Center, newly opened by the Galapagos National Park, which is truly an extraordinary contribution to the information and education of the island community and the traveler. Continuing the trail that exits from the Interpretation Center, at a short distance is Frigatebird Hill. Here it is possible to see Magnificent Frigatebirds and Great Frigatebirds in the same colony. This is the perfect place to compare and learn to distinguish them.

Before leaving San Cristobal you will have time to visit the Interpretation Center.  Opened to the Public in 1998, the Galapagos National Park Visitor Centre in San Cristóbal presents a complete and documented history of the Galapagos, its ecosystems, flora and fauna. It is also the place where different cultural activities take place like theatre, exhibitions and workshops (dance, painting etc). 

The Visitor Center is open to the public every day from 7am to 12pm and 1.30pm to 5pm.

Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner, Snacks…Parranda

Monday, October 27, 2003

Tower (Genovesa): Price Philips Steps & Darwin Bay

Located in the northeast part of Galapagos, this relatively small island is a low-lying volcano rising just above the ocean surface. To reach this remote location visitors journey across rough open waters during an all-night sail. Arriving at Tower the ship crosses a shallow-narrow channel into the caldera itself to anchor at the base of the steep crater walls. Once inside the volcano birds are visible by the thousands. Tower attracts an enormous number of pelagic seabirds that come there to breed: Great Frigatebirds, Red Footed Boobies, Swallow-Tailed Gulls and Storm Petrels all breed here by the thousands.

Darwin Bay was created when the island's large crater collapsed below sea level. Landing on the white coral beach the trail passes tidal lagoons. Once on shore the number of birds seems overwhelming, Masked Boobies soar overhead; Great Frigatebirds display their pouches while resting on the nearby rocks and plants, Mockingbirds scamper quickly across the sand. It's easy to see why Darwin Bay is a favorite of birders. As the trail continues to the cliff’s edge Red Footed Boobies can be seen nesting in trees while Sharped Beaked Finches, Large Cactus Finches and Large Ground Finches can be seen along the trail.

A second landing begins with a panga ride along the rocky cliffs.  The ride permits an outstanding vantage point to view the islands many shore bird nesting in small crevasses. Reaching the shore the trail called Prince Philip Steps begins with a steep, rocky stairs and at the top a relatively flat trail where bird life abounds.   This area is a nesting ground for a good selection of Galapagos birds nesting in the rocks are Masked and Blue-Footed Boobies and in the trees and bushes leads to an open area for Masked Boobies, Frigates, and Red-Footed Boobies. At the end of this trail are thousands of Band-Rumped Storm Petrels at the cliff's edge, where they nest in crevices. Short-Eared Owls can sometimes be seen here, hunting the storm petrels during daylight hours.

Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner, Snacks…Parranda

Tuesday, October 28, 2003

Fernandina: Punta Espinosa & Isabela: Elizabeth Bay

Fernandina at approximately 700,000 years is the youngest island and has the most active volcano in the Galapagos with eruptions taking place every few years.  Located on the far side of Isabela, this fascinating island is one of the least visited.

The flat lava of Punta Espinosa offers a stark and barren landscape, but here flightless cormorants build their nests on the point, sea lions sprawl on the beach or play in the tide pools and Marine Iguanas dot the sand.

Isabela (Albemarle) Island shaped like a sea horse; Isabela is the largest of the islands in the Galapagos, more than 4 times larger than Santa Cruz the next largest island.  One of the youngest islands, Isabela is located on the western edge of the archipelago near the Galapagos Hot Spot.  At approximately 1 million years old, the island was formed by the merger of 6 shield volcanoes - Alcedo, Cerro Azul, Darwin, Ecuador, Sierra Negra and Wolf.  All of these volcanoes except Ecuador are still active making it one of the most volcanically active places on earth. 

The afternoon visit is a panga ride through the mangrove areas at Elizabeth Bay to see the Spotted Eagle and Golden Rays, Sea Turtles, schools of Pompanos and Dorados, Sea Lions, Flightless Cormorants and circling overhead, Galapagos Hawks and Brown Pelicans. A colony of Galapagos Penguins inhabits a rocky islet at the entrance to Elizabeth Bay.

Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner, Snacks…Parranda

Wednesday, October 29, 2003

Isabela: Urvina Bay & Tagus Cove

Lying at the foot of Alcedo Volcano south of Tagus Cove, Urvina Bay is an easy wet landing on a gentle sloping beach. This area is very interesting in that it is a perfect example of the geological uplift activity of the islands. In 1954 over 5 kilometers (3 miles) of the marine reef at the edge of the shore were uplifted 4 meters (13 feet).  Boulder sized coral heads can been seen near the area that once was the beach.  Other highlights of Urvina Bay include some of the largest Land Iguanas in the islands, Marine Iguanas and Galapagos Cotton an endemic plant, historians believe the Incas brought to the islands, while naturalist theorize it floated across from Peru.

Seasonally Urvina Bay provides a nesting area for many of the Galapagos creatures. Female tortoises journey down from Alcedo to lay their eggs in the sand. Galapagos Penguins, Flightless Cormorants and Brown Pelicans also nest in the area.

The afternoon visit is to Tagus Cove. Lying directly east of Fernandina on the west coast of Isabela this sheltered cove protected by 2 volcanic craters has been used as an anchorage for more than 300 years.  On the towering cliffs of Tagus Cove, 19th and early 20th century ships’ graffiti can be seen. Along with Flightless Cormorants, Galapagos Hawks and Galapagos Penguins.  Landing on the shore there is a hike up a dusty trail through the Paleo Santo Forest past the saltwater lagoon offering excellent views of the cove, the boat and the Darwin and Wolf Volcano.

Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner, Snacks…Parranda

Thursday, October 30. 2003

Santiago: James Bay & Bartolome

Today’s visit begins with the Island of Santiago Also known as James and San Salvador the island’s central location and numerous landing sites make Santiago a part of almost every Galapagos itinerary. A favorite island for pirates and whalers, Santiago has a long human history as well as some outstanding opportunities for wildlife viewing. Highlights of a visit include the Fur Seal Grotto, Pink Flamingo lagoon as well as the chance to see Galapagos Hawks and Vermilion Fly Catchers.

On the northwestern side of the island is South James Bay (Puerto Egas). The landing is on a black beach with eroded rock formations in the background. The trail crosses the dry interior, where the remains of a salt-mining enterprise can still be seen and then continues along the coast. Inter-tidal pools are home to a variety of invertebrate organisms.   

Land iguanas are scattered around feeding on exposed algae while Oyster Catchers try to capture Sally Lightfoot Crabs. The trail then leads to the Fur Seal Grottos, one of the only places in the islands where Fur Seals can be seen. Puerto Egas is a good spot for taking pictures. Either at dawn or sunset, the light for photography is perfect. The lava and the black sand seem to catch fire and the animals acquire a surreal quality.

In the afternoon there will be ample time to visit the island of Bartolome (Bartholomew).  Bartolome is a small island that has beautiful white sand beaches, luxuriant green mangroves and a colony of Galapagos Penguins. Activities will include swimming and snorkeling and a climb to the summit of the island for one of the most breathtaking views in all the Galapagos. From the summit you will have the best view of the often-photographed Pinnacle Rock.

Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner, Snacks…Parranda

Friday, October 31, 2003

Santa Cruz: Charles Darwin Research Station & Highlands

Santa Cruz is the only inhabited islands to be visited during this Galapagos cruise.  Located near the center of the archipelago, Santa Cruz is the center of tourism in the Galapagos. Its close proximity to Baltra airport makes the island readily accessible. Puerto Ayora the largest settlement in the Galapagos is the homeport to many yachts, as well as home to the Galapagos National Park Service and the Charles Darwin Research Station making it included as part of most cruise itineraries. 

Santa Cruz's human development began in the 20th century, between WWI and WWII settlers from the United States and Europe moved to the area. Santa Cruz made a perfect destination. A large island with a variety of geology, wildlife and vegetation, all of the Galapagos life zones are present on Santa Cruz.

The visit begins with a landing at the town of Puerto Ayora, with a population of about 10,000 people.  A ten-minute walk from the center of town is the Charles Darwin Research Station, world famous for its tortoise breeding programs. Established in 1959, the Darwin Station works closely with the National Park Service protecting the Galapagos National Park and Marine Reserve.  Visitors learn about the natural history of the islands, conservation issues concerning the islands and see the tortoise breeding and rearing program at work.

After touring the Station, journey by bus into the highlands to Los Gemelos the two deep pit craters situated in the Scalesia Forest with lots of interesting bird life. The visit includes a walk through the giant lava tubes and a visit the Galapagos Tortoise Reserve to search for giant tortoises in their natural surroundings. There will be some free time to explore the town of Puerto Ayora.

Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner, Snacks…Parranda

Saturday, November 1, 2003

Española: Punta Suarez & Gardner Bay

Approximately a 10 to 12 hour trip from Santa Cruz, Española is the oldest and southernmost island in the chain.  It’s remote location helps to make it a unique jewel with a large number of endemic creatures adapted to the island's environment and natural resources. Marine Iguana's on Española are the only ones that change color during breeding season.  Secluded from the other islands, wildlife on Española

Gardner Bay is on the eastern shore and has a magnificent beach. This beach is frequented by a transient colony of Sea Lions, and is a major nesting site for Marine Turtles. Snorkeling at Gardner Bay is fantastic.  Around the small islets nearby, snorkelers will find colorful fish, Manta Rays turtles and sharks giving the feeling of swimming in a large aquarium.

On a trail leading to the western tip of the island you'll pass the only nesting sites in the Galapagos of the Waved Albatross, huge birds with a 6-foot wingspan. The birds nest here from April to December and represent the majority of the world’s population of this species. Punta Suarez is one of the most outstanding wildlife areas of the archipelago, with a long list of species found along its cliffs and sand or pebble beaches. In addition to five species of nesting seabirds there are the curious and bold Hood Island Mockingbirds, Galapagos Doves and Galapagos Hawks.  The Hood Mockingbird, the only carnivorous one of the species feeding on a variety of insects, turtle hatchling and sea lion placentas, is slightly larger than other Mockingbirds found in the Galapagos with a longer and curved shaped beak. Española is also home to several types of reptiles, including the brilliantly colored Marine Iguana and the oversized Lava Lizards, are unique to this island. When heavy swells are running, Punta Suarez is also the site of a spectacular blowhole, with thundering spray shooting 30 yards into the air.

Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner, Snacks…Parranda

Sunday, November 2, 2003

San Cristobal: Los Lobos, Kicker Rock & Port

Isla Lobos is located north of Chatham, 1 hour across a small channel. Isla Lobos means ”Sea-Lion Island”, and the name is certainly appropriate because they frolic, leap and make a racket here. It is also a nesting place for Blue-footed Boobies and a good place for snorkeling.

The final Galapagos excursion is to Kicker Rock a magnificent rock in the middle of the sea. Rising 500 feet straight from the ocean, this giant uplifted rock has the shape of a sleeping lion. It has a split with towering vertical walls on either side, forming a narrow channel through which small vessels can navigate.

After the landing the boat will return to San Cristobal where you will bid the Parranda farewell and transfer back to the airport for your return flight to Quito.  Lunch is served on board the 2-½ hour flight.  Upon arrival in Quito your guide and driver will meet you and provide you with transportation to the Hotel Sierra Madre for the night.

Breakfast, Lunch on flight…Hotel Sierra Madre

Monday, November 3, 2003

Today is a free day for you to explore Quito.

Breakfast…Hotel Sierra Madre

Tuesday, November 4, 2003

Your tour continues today South of Quito heading down along the Avenue of the Volanoes to Cotopaxi.  The first stop at the Cotopaxi National Park is the interpretation center where we will learn more about the local flora and fauna and the geologic formations in the area. Hand in hand with the beauty of nature, we will climb up to Cotopaxi's high mountain refuge where we will rest for a while and then go down to Lago Limiopunga and its lake where a delicious snack will be served. Then we will visit Pucara de Salitre, a strategic military fortress from the old Inca Empire that monitored the "incañanes", or roads that led to the eastern jungles and the Latacunga valley. Enjoy lunch at Tambopaxi and evening return at La Cienega where you can enjoy viewing the light change on Cotopaxi as the sunsets.

La Cienega is one of Ecuador’s oldest haciendas located on the slopes of Cotopaxi National Park.  This Hacienda’s location has made it the base for many scientists and adventurers over the years including Charles Marie de la Condamine, French scientist and part of the Geodesic Mission (1736-44) that determined the true shape of the earth as accepted today and laid the path towards the development of a universal system of measure (the meter) and Alexander Von Humbolt, a German naturalist who studied Cotopaxi's volcanic activity (1802) as well as its unique alpine flora.

La Cienega first class accommodations offer visitors the unique experience of staying at this colonial jewel, within its two-meter thick volcanic stonewalls which stand as silent witnesses to the history of a people and the poetry of an era. Surrounded by breath-taking natural beauty of the landscape and the rich folklore of Ecuador's indigenous people.

Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner…La Cienega

Wednesday, November 5, 2003

You awaken this morning and enjoy a leisurely breakfast at the Hacienda before heading out to enjoy the local villages of the highlands.  Wednesday is market day at Pujili.  This is an excellent example of a traditional Indigenous market.  Villagers are dressed in traditional clothing with the llamas loaded with colorful fruits vegetables and other goods.  There are fewer tourists at this market however there is still an opportunity to by local handicrafts the specialty of the area are ceramics.

After visiting the market you will continue south to the resort town of Baños where your guide will assist you with checking in to the Luna Runtun before they return to Quito and allow you to enjoy a couple of days of relaxation in this lovely town.

Luna Runtun is a world-class destination spa and hotel above Baños, Ecuador, a place blessed with natural beauty where adventures abound.

Luna Runtun´s 63 acres are nestled within the Sangay National Park, a declared World Natural Heritage Site, and the legendary Llanaganates National Park and the Pastaza Corridor dominate the view from Luna Runtun.

The surrounding area where Luna Runtun is located is considered a magnetic vortex, a unique place where the planet's 4 essential life elements - Air, Earth, Water, and Fire - are found.

Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner…Luna Runtun

Thursday, November 6, 2003

Set at the base of Tungurahua Volcano and along the Pastaza River Banos is at a cross roads of the Andes and the Amazon.  With warm comfortable weather, hot springs and a wide-variety of outdoor activities to enjoy as well as good restaurants it is no wonder that Baños was for years the get-away for wealthy Ecuadorians.  Over the next two days you are free to explore Baños and the surrounding area.

Breakfast, Dinner…Luna Runtun

Friday, November 7, 2003

Second Free Day to explore Baños and an afternoon transfer to Quito returning to the Hotel Sierra Madre.

Breakfast…Hotel Sierra Madre

Saturday, November 8, 2003

After an early breakfast you will receive a transfer back to the Quito airport for your departure flight home. 

Departing on American Airlines flight 966 at 9:40 am a 4hr flight takes you to Miami where you will connect to your flight back to Washington-Regan arriving at 5:43pm.

See our Email notes to Friends and Family

Interesting links:

Quito
Hotel Sierra Madre
City Museum
Other Quito attractions

Otavalo
Hacienda Pinsaquí
Surrounding Area
Spanish Institute

Galapagos Islands
M/Y Parranda Route
M/Y Parranda

Cotopaxi
Hacienda Cienega

Banos
Luna Runtun Hotel

Background information:

Birds
Trip report (excellent!!)
Species Lists
Many Links to more reports

Volcanoes
Volcano update
Tungurahua
And more
Still more
NOAA Ash Advisories
Map

Calm reading from the US State Department

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