Bob and Joyce
Ecuador and Galapagos Islands Adventure 2003

Trip Discussion

Joyce and I would like to share a few details about the trip planning process itself. Some people have asked us about why we went at this time of year, was the trip long enough, who helped with arrangements, etc. Here are some answers to some of the Frequently Asked Questions:

1. Time of year. Since seasons are not the same as in more temperate latitudes, traveling in Ecuador and the Galapagos becomes a matter of personal taste and interest. In the early part of the calendar year, the weather in the islands is sunnier, warmer, and wetter (on average). Late in the calendar year the weather is cooler, cloudier, and drier. The water temperature, also, is cooler in October. The leaves are off many of the trees in October, which allows the wildlife to be more visible. The best compromise is probably to experience both -- and go twice!

2. Arrangements. We looked in books and the internet and selected our travel consultant to be Teresa Hotchkin at http://www.galapagosonline.com .
We were pleased with her willingness to tailor our trip around the needs of the four of us and meet our budget. Every aspect of the trip worked according to the plan and promise from the moment we arrived at the airport in Quito on October 22 until we were delivered back to the airport in Quito on November 8. As there were many variables in the equation, this kind of excellent performance is greatly appreciated!  See below for details.

3. The trip with Guides and drivers. The four of us had never arranged a trip before where we were supplied with a vehicle with a driver and a guide. The success of such an arrangement depends upon the quality of all players. We think that a group of four or maybe six is an optimum size for the land portion.

We were met at Quito by our licensed guide, Gonzalo Gavilanes, and the driver, Franklin. They took us and our many bags to the Hotel Sierra Madre and briefed us on the procedures for the whole trip.

(In this adventure we had a "shared" Friday tour of Quito and the Equator. This was provided by Gray Line; our guide Carlos was very knowledgeable and spoke excellent English. As it turned out, there was only one additional person, a physician from New Mexico. We thus had a private tour for somewhat less money.)

On Friday, Gonzalo picked us up and we went north to Calderon, Cotacachi, and Otavalo stopping at a number of important places to learn about the mountains and volcanoes, people, wildlife, and culture. Each step along the way we had good food and great views. We could stop for pictures at any time and ask any questions. We stayed at the Hacienda Pinsaqui.

Saturday we visited the Otavalo Indian Animal market and then the Otavalo Saturday market. Then several other Indian villages before returning to Quito and the Sierra Madre.

Sunday we were delivered to the Quito Airport for the trip to the Galapagos. Gonzalo got our tickets for both plane and the ship and made sure all was in order before he left us. Attention to detail left us free to be tourists.

Upon arrival in the Islands, Alex, our guide on the ship, met us at the airport. He arranged to pick up our baggage and take it directly to our cabins on the ship. He collected our tickets for the ship, and also for the return airplane ride the following Sunday, so that we could focus on the sights.

Alex was the primary contact for the next week. He has been a guide for 15 years and knew every animal and plant and mountain and volcano. We confirmed the identities of the birds and animals in our book collection - he was always correct! At the end of the trip, he was on the bus right back to the San Cristobal Airport. We never saw our bags from the time they left the ship. Yet they were waiting for us in Quito as promised.

Gonzalo and Franklin met us in Quito on Sunday night after the Island trip and took us back to the Sierra Madre. We had requested a day of rest on Monday.

On Tuesday morning we headed south toward Cotopaxi and the Avenue of Volcanoes. Gonzalo stopped at a little town and we found a surprise parade of little children with delightful costumes. We stopped at several other towns and markets, as well as along the way to view the sights, sounds, and flowers and volcanoes. At the base of Cotopaxi Volcano we stopped for lunch and then went for a walk at 12,500 feet altitude. The van was always close by in case the air was not abundant for our needs.

That night we stopped at Hosteria La Cienega. Gonzalo made sure our rooms met our needs before leaving us.

The next day we drove to Banos, stopping a number of times to view volcanoes, markets, cities, and waterfalls. Gonzalo rode with Bob across a canyon in a basket suspended from a cable. The new contraption had apparently only been in operation for a week, but we found it.

Upon arrival at Luna Runtun, Gonzalo ensured that we had the rooms with the best view at the hotel. We had a truly magnificent view of the Banos below, and a great view of the erupting Tungurahua Volcano from the steps of our rooms. At our request we wanted a day without a guide in Banos.

The hotel arranged for our return to Quito. We had a driver and another person, Nelson, with the van who spoke decent English and gave us a colorful narration back to Quito. We stopped a few times for markets, a guinea pig lunch, ice cream, and rest stops.

On Saturday morning, Gonzalo and Franklin took us to the airport for the final time and got our bags inside the terminal before saying goodbye.

We saw and understand much more about everything by having such expertise to assist. All of the room and food bills were paid by the guide (or maybe magic) along the way. We paid only for evening meals in Quito and extra drinks along the way. (Of course, we paid for everything in advance!!)

4. Rain. We were told that it rains frequently in October/November in Quito. We were always prepared, but the first rain we actually had was on the last day - it was impressive.

5. Water. We always drank bottled water. The Sierra Madre has free bottled water in each hallway. Very convenient and abundant.

6. The Hotel Sierra Madre in Quito. This was our "base camp" on the mainland. We spent six nights there on four different occasions. The hotel has about 24 rooms. It is convenient to public transportation, restaurants, and Internet cafes. The staff was superb and met our every need. We could safely store valuables in a safe, and store our excess baggage in a locked room when we were off to the islands or mountains. The beds are comfortable and the showers hot and abundant. Most times we had rooms with a balcony. This is a more personal hotel, not a luxury hotel. We had a good buffet breakfast every morning. There were several groups staying there, including a tour group from Canada, that we met several times as they and we came and went. We would definitely stay again at this place and heartily recommend to anyone who does not need or want a "big" place.

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© Copyright 2003 Robert E. Graf


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