We flew straight north from Chicago over Green Bay WI then the western side of Hudson Bay and up over the Beaufort Sea North of Alaska. We could see low mountains covered with snow in the top of Canada and then the Arctic Ocean with huge layers of ice and big cracks about the width of the Miss River. Very clear for a long time. Then turning on the Great Circle over Siberia in Russia into Mongolia then down to Beijing. We arrived 15 minutes early at 14:15 China Time (CT) That is 12 hours different from EDT so it was 02:15 EDT on the Sep 13.

Our trip leader, Monica, met us. She lives in Xi'an which we visit later in trip.

Bob and Joyce
on Day 4 06:12 China Time (CT)

It was clear and hot - maybe 90 F. on the square was a museum (closed due to renovations) and congress with 4692 members. We did not visit. A big pix of Chairman Mao who died in 1976 but very much revered. In the Forbidden City we saw many pagodas and layer after layer of imperial buildings and thrones from historic times dating from 1492 to early 1900's.

We had dinner first night $12 USD for all four us including beer and a pile of food. Very good. Hotel is new and high quality. We are almost youngest of the 16 people in the group. All heavily traveled although we can hold our own. Time to go for now.

Bob and Joyce
Day 4 at 06:23

On Thursday we visited the Great Wall of China (known in Chinese as the "Long Wall"). We visited a place where very few tourists go. It is known as the remnant wall which has not been restored and so looks much as it has for many years. We were the only group there. It was a long climb to go up to see how it looks. It is difficult to imagine building this as it runs across the peaks of the mountains here which are about 2000 feet above sea level. As we were leaving we passed a group of young men (maybe 100) and another group of young women (maybe 50) on the way to visit this segment.

Then we went to a lunch at a hotel in the tourist section and we could see the difference. At the tourist section of the wall were hundreds of tour groups from around the world. The corridor inside the edges of the wall were seemingly flooded with umbrellas (raining outside). There were numerous stalls with stuff being sold. Even a few camels so you could get a picture. Down the back side of the was some kind of slide or roller coaster. Our tour operator left time to do this part of the wall (only Joyce and I went). So we have seen the authentic and the un-natural.

On that same day we visit a place that makes the Chinese vases and the like. Cloisinee process. We watch the crafts people take a copper vases and glue tiny pieces of wire which then were soldered in place. Then a colored powder put into the design. Then fired in furnace followed by more colors for several times and other parts of the process. When finished they produce the beautiful and very expensive vases and a huge variety of other art works. We had some time to shop in the store (surprise!!).

More to follow.

Bob and Joyce

Sep 17 -2005 at 09:41

Then we visited a boarding school where young people 13-16 learn the techniques of the Chinese opera. Singing, modern dance, classical dance, acrobatics, as well as literature, English, math, etc. Quite interesting. Some of the young student did brief recitals for us. The tuition is about $1000 USD per year. Quite a bit of money for here.

We spent lots of time in traffic here. A normal commute is 2 hours. There are 16 million people in the city. 2 million cars and 8 million bicycles. The main highways are very wide, but also many narrow streets and then some very narrow streets. All loaded with tour buses, city buses, bicycles, and cars and trucks. The bikes are crossing in between the cars even and major arteries. No helmets at all. Not one. People do use seat belts in cars.

Last night we went to the Peking Chinese Opera. A special performance designed for tourists. The singing is in Chinese with an English supertitles on the wall beside the stage. Beautiful elaborate customes, and amazing makeup which was applied in full view of tourists outside the theater entrance. Near the end of the performance was some acrobatics and manipulation of swords and batons. The performers must be the ones that almost make the Olympics. Extremely good.

After the performance we drove around Tian'nemen Square to see the lights. The edges of the buildings are all lit and it looks like a Chistmas light display. Very memorable.

Each group meal in much the same here. About ten Chinese dishes on a lazy Susan. Eat until you drop. Two glasses of beer or water or soda at every meal - all included.

Tonight we will take the overnight train to Xi'an. About 12 hours. Each couple has a room which has four beds including TV in each. More on that next time.

Our train ride was great. Very modern train with music and TV and two kinds of toilets one with a modern pit and one with flush toilet. We rode and slept well. More about the scenery (mostly at night with full moon) later.

In Xi'an we have visited the Terracotta warriors and a Buddhist temple. Both awesome. We also went to a water fountain show in the central square with fountains dancing to music. Many, many people like the fireworks show on July 4th. This was moon festival celebrating the autumn full moon.

We also went to a Chinese market that sells herbal medicines wholesale. If you need a 50 lb bag of saffron it is there. Also anything else you might imagine in herbs and spices.

We also went to factory that sells jade. Saw a very nice piece of jade with a special tourist Discount of $6000 USD. The price had too many zeros to consider buying. Very nice. Also a lacquer furniture factory and showroom, of course. Nice stuff. Just 50 coats of lacquer to make it glow.

Last night we went to a show in the hotel. Much like one would find on a cruise ship with music dance (12 men and 12 women), fabulous costumes and beautiful faces and superb talent. We have something to really anticipate when the Olympics are here (Beijing) in 2008. That is a big deal here.

Xi'an is city of only 6 million so much less traffic and still lots of bicycles. But commuting for us tourists is much easier. Also for the working people. We are slowly learning Chinese. It may take a while!!

The weather is warm, but no rain since arriving. Pretty foggy or hazy, but the full moon was in a clear sky.

Tonight we stay in a farmer home (they do not speak English) Four people per home and we may be somewhat alone there. Sort of a B and B. We will find out. Then tomorrow to the ship and the Yangtze River.

All for now

Bob and Joyce

Tuesday  13:12 PM

On our last day in Xi'an we stayed in a farmer home. These people were fairly well off. The government moved the town (urban renewal). The previous town within walking distance but quite primitive. Linda and Ed and Joyce and I were taken to the home. The owners were about 53. Their daughter in law and grandson (7) were there. We gave some gifts from Maryland and showed pictures of our families and grandchildren. Then just the four of us had dinner They must of imagined that all the group of 16 were to be there and as we ate the good, but abundant food - we could only think of all the poor starving children in America who would appreciate this abundance. Our rooms were about 12 feet square with 12 foot ceilings. In the streets were piled corn on the cob some in and some out of the husks with a few people husking.

We visited an elementary school the next morning. 7 year olds in first grade. There were 40 children with one teacher. Very alert and precious to be sure. 16 of us in the front of the class. Individual children came to the front and recited the English alphabet and numbers and sang some songs either alone or as a class. Very loud, clear, and correct. It was glorious for us and certainly for them. We sang Twinkle little star and a few rounds of Old Macdonald and they sang along. The photos should be awesome; the memories for us certainly are.

We then walked around the old village and went in an old mans home. A very primitive but clean bedroom and interesting kitchen with a faucet outside and surface pit privy. The new town is quite a change.

We visited the studio of a 50 year old female artist who painted a drawing in a few minutes and had about 50 paintings for sale. Nice.

After this we left for the airport to go to Yichang and the River.

More to come

Bob and Joyce
now in Tibet

At the ship we entered the wharf to the sound of a marching band (6 people). We boarded our ship, the Victoria line "Katarina" It has about 150 passengers and 131 crew. Quite large and very luxurious.

The ship stayed in the port overnight and departed around 0500 . We cruised to the first older dam about 20 years old (exact details later as I am sending this from memory). We entered a lock and rose up about 60 feet to the next level. The river is chocolate brown with fast current. 800 hundred feet wide plus or minus 500 feet. We cruised to the new Three Gorges Project. This is the largest dam and largest hydroelectric dam in the world. it is absolutely huge. Still under construction, especially the power generation part. But the water dam is done and the locks are operational to allow ships to go up and down the river. We were proceeding upstream. We got on buses with a guide and saw the project from several angles. It is quite the tourist attraction. Hordes of buses.

We returned to the ship and waited our turn to enter the locks. there are five locks. When the dam is completed and fully operational and flooded, ech lock will lift the ships about 60- 90 feet for a total rise of over 400 feet. The water level above the dam will be at 510 feet above sea level. The river is at sea level in Shanghai about 7 days down stream.

When our turn came we entered the lock and then nine other ships including 3 0r 4 cruise ships and 3 or 4 coal freight ships packed in about 18 inches apart. It took 90 minutes to get it loaded. then the water rose 60 feet in 6 minutes. The doors opened to another vault and we moved forward in four rows, each row tied together. Took about 40 minutes. We rose another 60 feet and repeated the process while we went to dinner after dark. The 4th lock was a partial rise and the 5th no rise at all -just passed through.

The next day we could see the implications of the dam. About 1.5 million will be displaced from their homes and sometimes whole cities will be flooded. The first flooding was in 2003 when the gates on the dam were closed for 14 days and the river rose about 70 feet. It will stay at that level until 2007 when it comes up another 70 feet and then in 2009 the final rise of another 70 feet. Many archeological sites have or will be flooded. The country has a long history to be sure.

All along the river are signs that show where the level will be in 2007 (156 meters above sea level, 460 feet) and 2009 (175 meters, about 535 feet). Houses and cities way up the steep banks will be lakefront property.

The river traffic is abundant. many river cruise ships and coal and truck ferries, mixed with little tiny fishing boats in the brown swirls. At night the large ships aim searchlights along the banks to locate the navigation buoys and look for other boats and rocks. the ship is very modern and has modern electronics for radar and depth soundings, but the bridge has four officers on duty constantly running the channels, currents, and traffic. Very neat. The weather remained overcast with some rain, fog, and haze/smoke. But we could easily experience the beautiful scenery and action and learn to understand the complications of progress. The dam will control the floods, generate electricity, improve navigation. A central government eases the process. 25% of the funding is to move the 1.5 million people.

Yesterday we arrived in Chongqing. This is the largest city in china with 32 million people. The city boundary is about the size of Austria. Compare ith San Diego which is the size of Connecticut. It is a mountain city and there are no-none-nada bicycles. Looks strange after 8 million bikes in Beijing. We did not spend any time there. Visited the museum about the Flying Tigers, American pilots who helped China in the "anti-Japanese War" in 1941-1942

Bob and Joyce

Now in Tibet

Monday 9-26-2005 at 16:50 PM

We flew from Chengdu where we spent the night. We have a new trip leader, Chao (or Tony). Normally a trip leader stays for the whole trip, but Monica had an unexpected commitment. Both Chao and Monica are extremely competent. We are very fortunate to have both.

We were instructed to rest this afternoon so we slept from 1 pm until I started writing here about an hour ago. Our hotel is a welcome change from the luxury we have seen. lots of color and character even though they say it is only 5 years old. The people on the street are usually in Tibetan clothes (as compared to the western dress in China). We passed many farmer villages on the 70 minute ride from the airport. The temp is about 70 with brilliant blue sky and sun at times. Goes down to about 45 at night (they say).

This internet parlor is on the third floor walkup with about 60 workstations. Many people playing computer network action games - presumably with each other altho the players could be any place in the world. The cost is 60 US cents an hour (I hope). yesterday it was 25 US cents a minute in Chengdu. Hot and smoky and lots of shouting and conversation in words I do not understand. There are tourists in here also.

I was watching a butcher outside the door chopping a huge piece of frozen meat with an axe in his little shop counter open to the street. We are promised a delicious meal of yak meat for dinner. The local people are quite used to the western tourists and expect to be paid for getting photo taken. Not sure how much I will do that.

The altitude so far not a problem. We move very slowly. We were told to drink lots of water as that will add oxygen to our bloodstream. I am not certain of the mechanism. They say when it rains that will also add oxygen. It is getting cloudy so maybe I will find out.

Best wishes to all of you

Bob and Joyce - Adventurers in China 2005

Lhasa Tibet

Monday at 17:09

Yesterday we walked to the Potala Palace which is the traditional Tibetan home and religious center of the Dali Lama, who is in exile in India. We saw numerous Buddhas and Tombs of past Dali Lamas. The largest was decorated with about 6000 pounds of gold and 10,000 precious stones including a pearl that was cultivated in an elephants brain (not sure how they tell when it is ready since ultrasound was pretty primitive a few hundred years ago!!)

Lots of Yak butter, incense, candles, Buddhas, and money all about. But almost no pilgrims. This is primarily a tourist attraction and museum since the peaceful takeover by the Chinese about 50 years ago. The first temple I described earlier was the most active current temple we saw. The physical structure is imposing - high on the hill above the town. No photos inside.

Another highlight was a visit to an orphanage. This is a private place with currently 83 children. They were bright and alert ranging from 15 days to 11 when we were there. Others are in elementary school during our visit. They were very well-trained and learning Tibet language, Chinese and English. They sang and escorted us around with great vigor.

Today we arrived by air in Chengdu - capital city of the hot,spicy food.

An opera tonight, Pandas tomorrow and then to Hong Kong.

This will likely be the last message before we arrive home on Monday. Hope you have enjoyed the commentary. You comments and questions are welcome.

Bob and Joyce

Currently in Chengdu