Robert E. Graf
Antarctica Expedition

November-December, 2008

Frequently Asked Questions

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Last update: December 22, 2008

1. Were you ever concerned about your safety? Not really. The ship seemed to be indestructible and the Quark team was very careful about every aspect of operations on and off the ship. More on this later. The potential cold and wet was a concern. I was completely prepared and then some.
2. Did you see any polar bears? No. There are none. They are only in the Arctic.

Same for native people. There are none.


3. Was the trip expensive? Yes. It is one of those things where if you have to ask, you shouldn't be there.
4. Did you see everything that was promised? Trick question.

 I was advised in advance that this was an expedition, not a tour. Everything is subject to change: ice, weather, temperature, wind, tides, sea conditions, local policies, people, airlines, equipment, fuel, etc. My hope was to spend a month on an icebreaker in Antarctica. I really did not read much of the brochures. My hope and wish was satisfied.

Some fellows passengers had been to Antarctica many times - hoping to get to places (finally) that had been skipped before for various reasons, or not included in earlier trips, or simply to return again and again. If at first you don't succeed, keep on paying.....

Those passengers who had certain fixed destination points in mind were sometimes disappointed. The ice or the wind was just too much this early in the season.

5. Did you have any problems with the cameras and the cold? No. It really did not get very cold. The minimum was about minus 9 C (+16 F). But ice, snow, rain, and sea water are constant concerns. Moisture and condensation on the lenses is problematic and chronic. Another problem was condensation and fog on the windows in the helicopter. Changing lenses on an SLR in the cold and wet is a challenge.

I had lots of batteries.


6. Did you bring a computer to process photos during the expedition? I did not bring a computer so I could not see any photos until I returned home. I wanted to spend my time taking photos or just being part of the experience. I had sufficient memory cards to hold all the photos I wished to take. I had no backup plan except to be very careful. I did not lose any photos and came home with some memory to spare including a lot of memories in my mind.

Many people did bring a computer and seemed to be very pleased that they did so.


7. Was the ocean rough and did you get sea sick? The notoriously rough Drake passage between Cape Horn and the Ant. Peninsula was relatively quiet. Quiet does not mean smooth and lots of people were quite unsettled (sick) including some of the crew members. The biggest waves/swells that I remember were perhaps 15 feet high (5 m). The wind was as high as 50 kts plus the speed of the ship. The ship has no stabilizers so it rocks and rolls: as much as 35 degrees in each direction sideways and maybe 15 degrees pitching as well as up and down. Several nights were challenging trying to keep from falling out of bed. One person commented that it was like an 8-hour car crash. The upper bunks have safety nets. Taking a shower or using the toilet requires some experience and care. Sometimes dishes and food hit the floor. This was not often. The tablecloths are wetted down to help keep the plates in position.

I did use a motion sickness patch for the Drake and also on the way out to New Zealand. I don't think it was really needed for me. There were rails everywhere and also sea sick bags through during the rough times. I spent a lot of time outside and that also helped.


8. Would/will you go again? Yes.
9. What is the age range of the passengers and what countries? The age range was about 30-85 with many in the 60's and early 70's. 25% were from America. Other countries included England, Ireland, Germany, Austria, Denmark, Israel, Canada, Australia, New Zealand, South Africa, Emirates, Netherlands, Italy, France, India, Japan, Switzerland and maybe a few others. The crew was mostly Russian. The primary language was English, although people did often group together with familiar languages. Many people had traveled extensively including multiple previous trips to the Arctic and Antarctic.
10. Did the ship have email? Yes. Messages went and came a shipboard satellite phone. Computers were available most of the time. Internet was not available and would be very expensive. Each email message (in or out) costs from 2 to 6 USD. The charges were by the kilobyte. A typical photo would cost $50 to $500 to send or receive (not recommended!!!!)
11. Did you see any stars or the australis borealis (southern lights)? I saw only one star during the majority of the trip (the sun, see below as viewed through the clouds at 04:00).

The southern lights only come out when it is dark. It did not get dark for most of the trip. I did see the planet Venus and the full moon near the end of the trip.

 


12. What was the temperature range? The coldest was about -9 C (+16 F). The warmest at the end was about +15 C (+59 F). The strong winds increased the wind chill.
13. How thick was the ice? I saw ice that was over 5 feet (1. 7 m) thick plus snow on top. I think the ship can handle about 3 - 4.5 feet (1 - 1.5 m). We went around any icebergs which are very big. Some were well over 100 feet (33 m) high and 1000 feet (330 m) wide and long. And that is above the water. They could extend 2 to 8 times that far under water.
14. How was the food? Excellent. This is luxury ship with gourmet food and fresh fruits and vegetables at every meal. Wine and other beverages were all available at additional charge.
15. What was your favorite part of the expedition? I really liked watching the ice breaking. But every aspect of the journey was fun and informative, including the long flights and coming home. Seeing thousands of penguins and thousands of icebergs is beyond description. The educational aspect is very special. There were numerous lectures and briefings including movies and photos.
16. Did you have trip insurance? Yes. Evacuation insurance was required. Since we were sometimes over 1000 miles from the nearest other ship or humans with very thick ice in between, a rescue could be very, very expensive if not impossible. Arrangements for this kind of trip need to be made very far in advance - for some people more than a year from first booking to embarkation.

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